Seriously Though? Sugar and Vinegar?
The thought of infusing a sweet and a sour ingredient together in one combined solution may appear to be a peculiar method (and then chuck it in a cocktail?). However, there are syrups and sauces such as a gastrique in French cuisine, and the agrodolce in Italian cuisine which succeeds in blending these two opposing flavours together harmoniously. Cocktail shrubs are known to be paired with seltzers and sparkling wines which lifts the concentrated flavours of the fruits and weakens the tart acidity of the vinegar.
History Of The Shrub
The etymology of the word 'shrub' is most likely linked to the Persian word sharāb which means 'wine' or another alcoholic beverage. Even back in 3000BC, the Babylonians use to blend date or fig vinegar, palm sap, and water together for a refreshing product.
During the late 15th century in England, shrubs took the form of cordial. They were used as alcoholic medicines used by the British Navy in the 18th century to ward off scurvy and revitalize the body. The popularity of shrubs exploded throughout England during the rise of smuggling imported goods. At the time there were high taxes on imported goods; so in an effort to avoid a hefty charge, smugglers dug passages and tunnels and hid the bottles in remote coves.
Amongst the brandy, jenever, and rum that was being smuggled into England from Europe, shrubs became a necessity as well. They were most likely used as an accompaniment mixed with the spirits to mask the briny, saltwater that spoiled the contents of the poorly-made wooden casks. The combination of rum and shrub together would perhaps influence the future invention of 'grogs' and 'gumbos'.
With the advent of refrigerators in the mid-late 20th century, the use of shrubs fell from the pages of history since fruit no longer needed to be preserved. Over a decade ago however, cocktail shrubs have been revived and reintroduced back into the drinking scene. Craft cocktail bars have found innovative methods of combining this refreshing component to elevate fruity characters and tart notes.
How to To Make the Perfect Shrub
Cocktail shrubs are such a simple, tasty, and exciting treat to create at home, and the possibilities are endless! I had a lot of fun experimenting with different flavour combinations over lockdown in 2020, my favourites being: a blueberry and mint shrub, a blackberry, grapefruit, and thyme shrub, and a coconut, lemongrass, and Kaffir lime leaf shrub (which tasted very much like lemon curd...). Here are the basic ingredients you will need:
Sugar: there are plenty of sugars to choose from, white, brown, turbinado, demerara, coconut, etc. White sugar will allow the flavours of the fruit or vegetable to really shine through (I found that demerara is very dominant).
Vinegar: you also have a good variety of vinegars as well, like apple cider, red wine, white, rice, and balsamic (which pairs beautifully with berries like blackberry).
Fruits or vegetables: here you have a plethora of choices at your fingertips: peach, date, pineapple, watermelon, mandarin, celery, apple, pear, strawberry etc.
Herbs, roots, or spices: these will compliment your primary fruit or vegetable flavour and add an extra dimension to the shrub, adjuncts like cardamom pods, ginger, thyme, rosemary, cinnamon quills, peppercorns, and sage feature heavily in shrubs.
The composition of a shrub is very straight-forward, however it has the freedom to be complex and multi-layered, depending on your choices of all of the above factors. So check out the fruit and vegetable section in your local grocer. Whip up a rhubarb and ginger shrub or maybe even a tangelo and rosemary shrub? Have some fun with it!
Ratio Ratio Ratio
The keyword here is ratio. Ratio is key when creating a well-balanced cocktail shrub from scratch. You don't want the tart acidity of the vinegar to hide the fresh flavours of the fruit, and you don't want the sweetness of the sugar to overpower the subtle nuances of the spices or herbs. It is recommended to follow the 1:1:1 ratio of fruit, sugar, and vinegar. Cold process shrubs are the more preferable of the two methods (I find that a significant amount of flavours from the fruit is lost in the hot process shrub).
I have made shrubs multiple times, so here are some tips and tricks I have learnt through trial and error toward making a satisfying cocktail shrub:
I have found that the 1:0.5:0.5 ratio of fruit/vegetable to sugar to vinegar ratio has resulted in a very satisfying end product for me personally. I always want the flavour of the fruit or vegetable to be front and centre in the shrub, rather than being overpowered by the acidity of the vinegar or hidden beneath the sweetness of the sugar.
I have also found that resting and macerating the fruit in sugar for several days in the fridge extracts the optimal amount of flavour from the fruit into the sugar, since sugar has this tendency to absorb moisture and oils from it's surroundings (known has hygroscopicity). Then you are left with a sugary solution infused with the flavours of the fruit.
So after I have macerated the fruit in the sugar, I add the vinegar, whatever herb, root, or spice I have chosen, as well as more chopped up portions of the fruit or vegetable. I then let this solution refrigerate overnight. I have found that this method has yielded the most satisfying results.
Here Are Some Awesome Shrubs to Check Out
18.21 is a company out of Altanta, Georgia that handcrafts bitters and tinctures, as well as an impressive range of cocktail shrubs.
Their Apple Cardamom shrub pairs tremendously well with pear liqueur in a Gin Martini, as well as St Germain and St George Spiced Pear. Their Watermelon & Mint shrub elevates the minty freshness of a Mojito, and works well with a smoky Scotch whisky. Finally, their Blood Orange & Ginger shrub is recommended to be paired with Cherry Heering, Aperol, or Campari, and could be a welcome guest in a Moscow Mule...
So there you have it! The origin, history, application, recipe, tips, and tricks to make a cocktail shrub. Get stuck in to that fruit bowl and spice cabinet, and see what magic occurs. Happy Drinking!
By Lucas Barker, a passionate mixologist with seven years of hospitality experience. 4/8/21
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